Women chefs in Spain, led by Maria José San Román are making a real difference to gender inequality by forming MEG (Mujeres en Gastronomia) a National association with goals to promote talent, increase visibility and provide a network of support to all women in hospitality.
During a recent chef stage in Alicante, I talked to MEG President and Michelin star chef, Maria José San Román to find out more about the goals and objectives of MEG.
Today, MEG has over 500 members, from all areas of hospitality, chefs, front of house, suppliers and journalists. Find out how you can become a member of MEG and become part of a growing group of women in Spain moving towards a change.
How did Mujeres en Gastronomia begin and why?
Maria José San Román: MEG (Mujeres en Gastronomia) began because of a conversation amongst friends. I invited around 50 of my friends to meet at my restaurant in Alicante, to celebrate 20 years in the industry – and also to provoke a dialogue.
What questions did you ask?
Maria José San Román: We began to ask questions like: Why despite the fact so there are so many women in hospitality, are there so few women in the top jobs? Why is it that some women restauranteurs still have their husband’s names over the doors? How have they ended up in this situation and how are they going to move forward?
Maria José San Román: We said why don’t we join forces and look for solutions. There was a need for an association where all communities of Spain from Galicia to Andalucia would be represented, and the result was MEG.
How are you helping each other to succeed?
Maria José San Román: We are currently building a panel of experts, defining our objectives, and we are creating a network, so we can help each other. MEG now has around 500 members and an online portal that provides the connections and support.
Who can join MEG?
Maria José San Román: Anyone that supports MEG’s values can join. Members include chefs, front of house, suppliers, culinary students and also professionals from other sectors including journalism, business and psychology.
Can you tell us about the launch of GastronomicAs?
Maria José San Román: I also wanted to do something of my own to increase the visibility of women in gastronomy – so I launched GastronomicAs. Women chefs can use my restaurant, during a one-night pop up, to show case what they are doing. It serves as platform, gives them visibilty.
Can you name some of the women chefs who have taken part in GastronomicAs?
Maria José San Román: So far many women chefs have visited including Esther Manzano, Josefa Navarro, Lucia Frietas, Rougi Dia, Nagai Keiko, Flora MIkulo, Zahie Tellez. It’s working well! Next year, Lucia will celebrate her 10th anniversary in her kitchen and she will continue the idea. I can send 10 women chefs to her cook in her restaurant. I think everyone should do this. Why not? Why can’t Elena Arzak help women who are not so famous become better known. We need to build role models for the press.
What’s your opinion on women chef awards and honours?
Maria José San Román: I’m really against awards specifically for women chefs. Very much so. It is negative. There shouldn’t be a difference. We are the same and should be judged so the talent of a woman chef is the same as that of a man.
How important is recognition?
Maria José San Román: We all need applause, not just the few. Talent exists in a corner in India but it needs recognition, someone needs to applaud it.
That Quique Dacosta’s gazpacho is better than mine, or not. That’s irrelevant. He has more visibility.
Why is there such a small percentage of female head chefs to male head chefs?
Maria José San Román: Right now there are only 10 % of women in top jobs (head chefs, head of front of house etc), so that means we need 90 % of the attention of the press! We have the right to be heard.
How important is it to get the press on board?
Maria José San Román: We make the press aware. It doesn’t always have to be about Martin (Berasategui) or Andoni (Aduriz), there are stories about women who should be heard.
There are many women cooking in schools, making food for 300 people daily – isn’t this important? Of course it is. These women need an article written about them.
Help make a difference to women in hospitality. Join MEG (Mujeres en Gastronomia) and cook up a change.